The Wisconsin side of the Lake

We arrived in Manitowoc, Wi on 8/7 and were happy to be settled in before the storm. Afterwards we learned that Milwaukee had a major hit from the overnight winds and rain. Over 225,000 residents were left without power from what was called the largest storm in the history of the power company. Whew, that was a close one for us.

Manitowoc is the Badger’s Wisconsin port and we saw and heard her daily as she entered and exited the harbor.

We also visited the free Wisconsin Maritime Museum. While this wasn’t the most informative or interesting maritime museum we’ve been to, I was impressed by how kid friendly it was. As a former elementary grade teacher, I could envision bringing a large group of kids here and keeping them engaged and excited with all the hands on exhibits. We were also surprised to see an exhibit about The Great Loop. Hmmm, maybe we should give that a try.

While the museum was no charge, we did pay for a guided tour of the submarine. USS Cobia. The 312’ Cobia was launched from Connecticut in 1944 and saw plenty of action during WWII, including the sinking of a transport carrying 28 Japanese tanks.

Here’s a dump of some photos I took on the tour. A couple things to notice- look at how cozy some sailors were with their torpedo bunk mates. The sailors literally dropped their bunk down over the torpedos and snuggled in for the night. The bulkhead doors weren’t designed for big boys. Some found it a tight fit getting thru.

The Cobia is propelled by her electric motors. When her batteries needed to be recharged, they had to surface. Once on the surface, the diesel generators could charge the batteries.

We stayed a day longer in Manitowoc than planned as we waited for weather to pass and then continued south on Lake Michigan to Sheboygan.

August 10, Oh yeah, this was a much better day to leave.
Wait! We didn’t realize just how foggy it was out here. On Lake Michigan, light winds in the morning can mean lots of fog.
By the time we got to Sheboygan, the fog had cleared and we had a beautiful day of cruising.

Sheboygan is a much larger city than Manitowoc and we found lots to keep us occupied.

Just outside of the marina we found the remains of the Lottie Cooper.

The Lottie Cooper was built in Manitowoc in 1876, was 131’ long, 27’ wide and had 9’ of depth. She capsized off Sheboygan in an April gale in 1894. Her remains were found during the construction of the marina in1992.

Sheboygan also has the best farmer’s market we have found so far this year. I was so excited to wander through and pick out fresh ears of corn, cauliflower, carrots, fingerling potatoes, and cucumber. I got all for only $20.

One of the other highlights of Sheboygan was meeting several other loopers. Rick and Sue, The Fire Escape, live in Sheboygan and will be heading to their DeFever 44 in Brunswick, Ga. as the weather cools. In the meantime, they are amazing hosts to loopers who come to their hometown. Not only did they drive Tim to a grocery store and introduce us to friends, they took us on a driving tour of their city. We can now say that we were at Whistling Straits golf club in Koehler where the 2021 Ryder Cup is currently being held. Speaking of Kohler, did you know that Sheboygan is the home to the Kohler dynasty? Yes, Kohler as in toilets and sinks. The Kohler family has been in this area since the 1900’s. We wandered through their America Club which as built in 1918 as a residence for their immigrant employees. The America Club is now a high class hotel (I bet some of those Ryder Cup guys are staying there).

We also toured the Kohler Design Center, a museum that showcases current and past products made by Kohler.

We enjoyed Sheboygan for it’s historic architecture, watching the charter fishing boats coming in loaded with the morning catch, the daily activities at the Sailing Club right behind our boat, the bar overlooking the marina and the great people we met there.

Next stop- Port Washington

Port Washington is a much smaller city than Sheboygan and even with it’s nice, new marina, bigger is not always better. Once again, there were no slips available that could accommodate our length, so we were assigned a spot on a wall. For one of us, Maggie, this was great news. For her it means a very short walk to the grass so she can take care of business and she gets to meet and greet all the tourists and local walkers/joggers that cruise the walkway. For another crew member, it means he has a very long walk to the boater’s restroom to take care of business and it means we all have to listen to Maggie’s high pitched meet and greet. Ah, we take the good with the not so good.

Soon after our arrival, a late lunch was is order. Just a block from the marina we found the Fork and Tap had just what we needed- outside seating, shade, and cold beer. You know that we consider ourselves fairly frequent brewsters. But we have discovered that there’s a new way of filling a glass with beer. Maybe you already discovered this, but it was new to us. Instead of filling your glass from a tap, the beer is pushed into the glass from the bottom. Really! Filling from the bottom creates less foam. Hmmmm. I wonder if the person who invented this was on Shark Tank.

Here’s some shots from our wandering around Port Washington.

After a few days, it was time to head south again. Time for the big city, Milwaukee.

Once again, we had beautiful conditions as we left Port Washington and headed south.

We’ll be biding our time in Milwaukee for about 10days as we let summer draw to a close. Yes, we, like the rest of the country are running our AC full time. What a difference from when we were up on Lake Huron in Cheboygan. As we watch the temperatures soar in the Midwest, we are happy to have decided to hold off on the trip down the rivers. Meanwhile, we are anxiously awaiting our first boat guest in 2 years. Dear friend, Lisa, who joined us on our trip up the Rideau to Ottawa in 2019, will be flying in on the 31st. She better bring us fresh stories. Tim and I have heard enough of each other and desperately need some new ones

Ludington, MI to Manitowoc, WI

As forecasted, Lake Michigan finally settled down and gave us a pass to head south to Ludington.

The lighthouse marking our way into Ludington.

As with so many other marinas in Michigan, our size was an issue at the Municipal Marina. Shorter boats were able to get a slip, we were offered a space on the wall. This wasn’t a big issue for us. We still had power and water, but it also put us along the walking path for locals and tourists. Maggie, being the greeter that she is, felt she needed to let us know about everyone walking past especially those who had a dog.

One of the things we have loved about towns in Michigan has been the pride people take in their communities. All of the towns have been adorned with welcoming flower baskets and gardens. Ludington is no exception. Here, volunteers plant 30,000 red, white and blue petunia along Ludington Avenue creating the Petunia Parade, thus inviting you to stroll from the lakeside through town.

Ludington is also home to the SS Badger, the last coal-fired passenger steamship in operation in the US. She makes a daily run from Ludington to Manitowoc, Wi and back ferrying passengers and vehicles. Every morning we hear her announce her departure from Ludington at 9am. She returns from Manitowoc at 7pm. One evening we joined many others for the return.

The SS Badger entering the river from Lake Michigan.
She comes in and begins her turn.

As she turns, she drops her anchor, using it to pivot as she backs into her mooring.

Lots of fishing going on here too.

I also decided that somebody was due a bath.

I had to give you some cuteness.

And of course, we had to check out the breweries.

Yes, those are blueberries floating in my beer. Mmmmm

We really enjoyed the few days we had in Ludington. Our Harbor Hosts, Rose and Dave were wonderful and we were able to spend some time with other loopers. Hopefully we’ll meet up with many of them as we head down the rivers.

Looming over us for days was the decision of when to cross over Lake Michigan. As we have learned, the Lake can be quite fickle as her moods swing. The forecast was leaning toward OK, not great, but OK to cross on Saturday, August 7 and we were leaning toward accepting it. However, there was also a forecast of a storm on the Wisconsin side. The math said at 8 mph for a 60 mi trip, we should be over in 7 1/2 hours. The storm was scheduled to hit around 4-5pm. There ain’t no speeding this slow, fat trawler up, so we either had to trust the weatherman that we could beat the storm or we had to forego this window and wait several days for another.

We were hoping the storm was traveling east slower than we were traveling west.

We chose to go for it. Off the wall around 7 am, we started out pretty good. We were all pretty chill. Somewhere past halfway, things got a bit rougher.

When we had a couple hours to go, the washing machine waves began in earnest. It was not the crossing we hoped for, but it could worse. That big green blob of a storm held off until 6 or so, well after we settled in.

Welcome to Wisconsin! We’re taking it slow as we head down and have time to kill. We made a decision early on that we didn’t want to hit the rivers until after Labor Day. I’ll tell you about Manitowoc and Sheboygan in my next post and then we’ll be off to Port Washington, Milwaukee, Racine, Kenosha and lastly Chicago before we leave Lake Michigan.

Manistee- what a sweet little town

We weren’t prepared to enjoy Manistee as much as we did. This small community isn’t on the “gotta do” list and I’d never even heard of it before we started looking for marina towns south of Frankfort; but it was well worth the stop and we were happy to get weathered in here.

We left Frankfort on Wednesday, July 28 taking advantage of a great weather day.

It was a short trip south from Frankfort
Coming into Manistee. It was a perfect day for travel.

Manistee is located on the Manistee River and the marina docks line the river as you come in.

On our first day there, we noticed some commotion and people gathering. We heard horn blasts in the distance and asked a neighbor what was going on. We were told that the Calumet was on her way up river. Sure enough, here was this 604’ freighter slowly gliding up river and we had front row seats.

I’m not sure where she went, but up the river and in Manistee Lake is a Morton Salt factory, a cement factory, Martin Marietta Magnesia Chemical plant. Tim may have some input here. The impressive part for us is that in the morning when we were looking at AIS to find her location, she was already half way across Lake Michigan. Some time during the night she silently slinked past us and headed out takin care of business.

Highlights of the trip included dinghy riding along the river.

We would also walk to the beach to check the status of Lake Michigan. Most days we were perfectly content to be tied to a dock rather than rocking and rolling in the rough waters.

Manistee has several historic Victorian era homes to stroll by and admire. So we did that too.

The SS City of Milwaukee is moored in Manistee Lake and daily tours are given. So Tim and I took a dinghy ride over to learn about her and her side kick, USCGC Acacia.

S.S. City of Milwaukee is a Great Lakes train car ferry used to haul train cars across Lake Michigan from Milwaukee to Muskegon, Mi. She was built in 1930 to replace her predecessor that sunk during a gale in 1929 loosing all crew aboard. She was brought to this location in 2004.

She could hold 28-30 fully loaded rail cars

She has two triple-expansion steam engines.

Besides serving as a museum, The SS City of Milwaukee is also a bed and breakfast. Yup, you can sleep in one of these luxurious rooms and enjoy dining in the officer’s dining hall.

We really enjoyed our stay in Manistee and would recommend it to anyone traveling by boat or road. The only negative I can find is the brewery. Poor Maggie and Tim. The only outside area they had that was dog friendly was in the direct afternoon sun and that just doesn’t work for any of us. Can you believe we actually skipped one. Oh well, we’ll make up for it in Ludington.

The weather gods smiled on us and on our planned leave day of Monday, August 1, the water was once again smooth and inviting. Time to move south to Ludington.

Just a note- we have a “cross the lake” date. As of now, we are looking at Saturday, August 7 to cross over to Manitowoc, Wi. They only have room for us a couple nights and then we’re looking at going south to Sheboygan.